Impression 3D : test de la DiscoEasy200 the Dagoma
For once, it will not be an article for the Raspberry Pi but for another accessory that democratizes more, j & rsquo; have named the & rsquo; 3D printer !
It was now a few months as I watched with envy these little machines create their own objects on demand. For a techie like me (I support more the word geek – but c & rsquo; s another story) c & rsquo; is a little dream. As a result a former article in Korben, j & rsquo; have invested in a home DiscoEasy200 Dagoma. J & rsquo; chose kit version to 299 € (rather than assembled to 399 €).
Arrived two weeks after ordering, the package is pretty well organized and I advise to unpack on a large table because there are many pieces.
L & rsquo; set weighs its weight, the metal bars are solid as the various plastic parts (40% s & rsquo; printer) that are actually printed. I find the principle without new, original and AC lets you know that & rsquo; we can also print itself for repair parts.
If you're like me not necessarily confident on & rsquo; assembly (I further hack the software and hardware), everything was assembled in just ready 4h taking my time and following the very good video Dagoma that are perfect for me. each fact 30 minutes but accelerated so take breaks and take your time !
And the part 2
So for now c & rsquo; is positive but I & rsquo; do have some criticisms ! Because yes all n & rsquo; is not perfect and the final result deserves some comment :
- Support for SD card was misprinted so it had attacked the lime but no way to calibrate it correctly and you have to insert the card through a little for her to go to the end (a screw that hold the block does not pass d & rsquo; elsewhere)
- A hole to secure the tray is too large. So l & rsquo; nut does not lock. My tray So wishes for the moment with only 3 vis.
- The video explains the evil & rsquo; assembly couplers, those parts which serve to hold the big screw on & rsquo; vertical axis. You need a small screwdriver to undo H2 micro screws and the rods pass correctly
- J & rsquo; had a big scare by clipping his head on his bar because they were too low. Result in clipping, the tip of the nozzle has tapped the plate, ripping the carpet but thankfully without s & rsquo; damaging !
So that nothing serious. The result after a good afternoon d & rsquo; assembly
So if like me you have a side “I hate cables” you say surely “but c & rsquo; is what this disgusting thing everywhere with son ?”. Must say that c & rsquo; is really ugly despite a pass supplied cable. The son have different lengths. Either keep it that way, whether it's a package under the tray. So j & rsquo; I preferred to leave like that at the moment but c & rsquo; is not really top.
Ditto for the tablecloth to the card with SD reader. It is much too long.
Now that & rsquo; assembly is done, must start setting. Dagoma offers a very simple d & rsquo implementation; use that will adjust the basic pitch, the ideal temperature and the ability to update your printer. You can then start a small circles test print to help you validate the nozzle height.
Then the true impressions, I n & rsquo; there know nothing. J & rsquo; so I loaded the software “Care by Dagoma”, simplified version of Cura, c & rsquo; is perfect. Less d & rsquo; so we will option to & rsquo; essential. For the beginner c & rsquo; is very well. There are many models on sites like Thingverse.com.
Some tricks to conclude :
- The quality of the filament is extremely important. And on that I'm not very happy Dagoma. J & rsquo; spent a week trying to understand why all that I & rsquo; n & rsquo was printing; not hung on the board as soon as the & rsquo; 1cm thickness exceeded. In fact j & rsquo; took something that & rsquo; sample supplied with the kit and then it worked the first time. FYI filament that I & rsquo; have is the Filo3D (white for now). I do not think that & rsquo; sample was bad but the default settings do not suit her and for a beginner c & rsquo; is zero.
- When & rsquo; insertion of the filament in the nozzle, we must go all the way. Let me explain, the wire is wound curve, thus returning the head it's not going well back. Result it crashes and & rsquo; extruding “slap” (recurring topic on the forums). You must be able to return at least 7/8 cm filament in the head
- Take time to adjust your nozzle height. Improper adjustment will not end up paying with downright ugly results
here are some examples
For a start c & rsquo; is not too bad. But you can see that c & rsquo; is far & rsquo; be perfect. On the hull, you can see it n & rsquo; is not smooth. L & rsquo; s coaching & rsquo; booth opening n & rsquo; is not clean. In short there is still adjusting to !
In & rsquo; overall I'm happy with my purchase. 300€ (yes c & rsquo; is € 299 !) it's still a pretty penny and I & rsquo; really afraid of the result. It s & rsquo; pretty well but for those hoping for a plug-n-print printer, go your way. Even I am relatively patient, after 2 weeks to fight with a plastic wire j & rsquo; had more than enough. The support Dagoma is present but not sufficiently responsive to this kind of & rsquo; help. I advise you Forum lesimprimantes3D that m & rsquo; has helped (and c & rsquo; is not over).
And as you can see, even after a complete printing, that & rsquo we know, there is still some way to achieve a perfect result. You can go through many tools to optimize the & rsquo; together, and even a Raspberry Pi to install OctoPrint so you can remotely control the & rsquo; printing and even pause !
Here in the same final print boat “correctly”. It shows the road that still lies ahead (I'm crying !)